#10 - Some Basic Concepts

In my defense, this dress is kind of mesmerizing. Just look at
all the STUFF!!

This post is late because:

1. I was obsessing over a different project
2. I was reluctant to stop talking about Queen Elizabeth since I think she's super cool, and
3. I couldn't figure out why fashion in this era had changed so much and what it meant.


So, really, I don't have an excuse at all.  But, with all the thinking and obsessing I did, I realized that I haven't covered some abstract ideas which might be very helpful in thinking about fashion, history, and the people who make all of it.  That is what we will be discussing today.   Since it's a late post, there will be a test but there won't be any assignments so just read and think and we will get back to the work next week.






I want to discuss is what exactly fashion/clothing IS.   I mean, yes, it's things you put on your body, but why does it look like anything other than this?

"Flexable, comfortable, adaptable, and it matches my
hair!  Perfect!"

Or, if you need sleeves, this:

I'm pretty sure this photo is sillier than the other one.  I also
think this man might have done steriods at some point in his life.

Or, honestly, why aren't we all wearing this?

Really, what's the point of all this fashion stuff?  I mean, it's just clothes.  Why are we even talking about it?

Well, there is a duality to clothing which combines to make a very interesting visual language.  First of all, clothing is something people MAKE.  And humans, when they make stuff, tend to express themselves in the act of creation.  That's what art is, basically.  Creation which communicates.

No, really, that's what art is.  I promise.
Painting by James W. Johnson

People make clothes and in the act of creating them they tell us what they think the body should look like, what they think is interesting, what they value, and whether or not there is such a thing as too many rhinestones.

That answer to that question apparently  is "no".

So, a lot of high fashion (i.e. the stuff you see on fashion runways) is for sale the same way paintings or sculptures are for sale.  It's a piece of art which happens to be wearable.  Here is some art:

Any of that stuff look familiar?   This is from the Fall 2013 Ready To Wear Collection by Alexander McQueen.  I know you can't see it very closely, but all the white designs on the black dresses are made by individually stitched pearls.  There is an INSANE amound of detail and work put into making dresses which look a lot like Elizabeth I.

Now, obviously you aren't going to pick up some milk at Smiths wearing a dress like this.  Head baskets will not be the new fashion trend of the fall.  Ruffs won't make a sudden and surprising burst into everyone's daily beauty routine.  Viewing these garments as just stuff to wear means you are missing the art of them, and the beauty.  To really appreciate them one should just look at them like you would a painting, or a movie.   Just listen to what your internal response to them is.  Think about how the shapes remind you of other stuff.   Look at how the different lines and curves are composed.  Notice what historical or social ideas you bring with you when seeing the clothing.  See if you can tell what the values of the object are, and if they bump against or meet up with yours.  Then, when you've done all that, just look at it again 'cause this stuff is PRETTY!

All that Battenburg lace is made by hand.

ALL of it

And every single pearl is stiched onto leather by hand

So, that's your art apprciation for the day.  Make sure you take a minute and really look because I will ask you questions about this on your quiz.

I said fashion is dualistic in nature.  If the first part is individual expression, the second part is social signaling.  Social signaling is the part of fashion we normally think of first.  It's the reason we have shows like "What Not To Wear", feel comfortable criticizing other people's fashion choices, and worry about what other people will think of us when we get dressed.  (Well, some people worry.  You may not.)

"I, too, am not worried about what others think
because if they do think, they know I am AWESOME!"

When we wear clothes, we visually tell others about ourselves.  I use the word "signal" because clothing can be like a giant flashing light at a railroad stop, or like a little blue LED light on your phone.  All of it means something but some stuff won't be noticed unless you pay attention.

So, sometimes people wear clothing to get attention.

"This is what Google Glasses SHOULD have looked like"

"I paid a lot for this blanket so make sure you see that it's a Louis Vitton!"

"We make poor choices"

I see London, I see France..

"This is my "tough guy" disguise. Is it working??"

 This is okay.  The orange sweatshirt above tells us that that this woman isn't afraid to wear loud colors, likes being looked at, is comfortable paying $200+ dollars for a sweatshirt that says KINZO on it, likes chunky pseudo-ethnic matching accessories, and probably thinks it's slightly funny/cool/ironic to be wearing an expensive sweatshirt which mimics something old ladies buy at Wal-Mart.

You know, like this.

Hipsters wandering the streets during New York Fashion Week aren't the only people who do this, obviously.  Folks have done this for a long long time.

"what?"

Showing off and getting attention is a valid use of clothing.  Everyone needs attention and social approval.  Clothing is a way to get that.  Also, sometimes, it can get you a boyfriend/girlfriend.  Or so I've been told. 

Clothing also displays status.  By choosing what we wear we show how important we think we are or how much money we have.  This guy looks rich.

This guy does not.

Both of the above outfits are from designers and both are expensive. The shape of the clothing we associate with status and power is stronger, culturally, for the guy in the sport jacket than for the dude in the headband, so the actual material used or cost doesn't hit us unless we look closely.  Well, and the painty hands might also affect your judgement a bit...

But, we already knew that clothing communicates status and wealth.  There wouldn't have been sumptuary laws invented in the past if folks in power didn't want to be visably different from those persons poorer or "lower" than them.

What about people who aren't giant peacocks?  What about people who just wear clothing they like, are comfortable in, or think looks nice?

Well, that's where (1) the personal artistic expression of the clothing designer combines with (2)social signaling and turns into (3)personal expression by the person WEARING the clothes.  So if you choose to wear something, you are really choosing to support a certain set of values, emphasize specific physical features, demonstrate your status within the culture you live in, express your preferences for colors or fabrics, and living within the movement constraints the clothing may or may not have.  [If you design/make your own clothing you kind of blend items (1) and (3) together.  But item (1) is only completely removed if you actually design/make your own fabric too.]

All of that seems like a lot but we do it without thinking.  It's kind of like breathing.  It's only complex if we stop to think about it.

I think this is a good place to stop.  Remind me to discuss sillouette and waistlines later.  But, for now,
your test!

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1fNmK23yvxKw3rOnW5PRQGFgTWuLcTREI6-C97Vf4clM/viewform